![]() Rust-through under the right footwell near the battery box is reported. Primer has been applied to portions of the car, areas of the body have been filled, and the bumpers have been removed. This example left the factory finished in Ermine White. This Capri project is now offered at no reserve with spare parts and an Ohio title in the name of the seller’s mother.Īmerican Chuck Stevenson won the 19 Carrera Panamericana touring car class in a Lincoln Capri. A four-speed automatic transmission and 15″ steel wheels are also equipped. Portions of the removed seats have been re-trimmed in black leather, and the white finish has areas of primer. Work performed circa 2014 involved overhauling the 317.5ci V8, though the engine has not run since around 2016. Use the transmission jack as a stand only and your arms doing the maneuvering.This 1954 Lincoln Capri hardtop coupe is a non-running project that has been in the seller’s family since the mid-1990s. Strapping the transmission on a transmission jack and moving it forward into the clutch just doesn't cut it. When it comes time to line up the splines and push in the transmission it's best done by bench pressing the transmission so you can angle is just right by wiggling it so it goes in. You're more likely to have piston ring wear and severe oil consumption before you wear out any of the seals. I can understand if a particular engine is notorious for this problem but like most modern Japanese engines it's almost unheard of even at very high mileage. These engines are not known for main seal leaks and you risk having one by trying to replace it. Use the transmission jack as a stand only and your arms doing the maneuvering.Īs far as the rear main seal I would only inspect it and if it's good I would leave it alone. When it comes time to line up the splines and push in the transmission it's best done by bench pressing the transmission so you can angle it just right by wiggling it so it goes in. This will keep your clutch performing well for a long time. I recommend using Honda moly 60 that you can pick up at any Honda dealership. Use high-quality moly paste on the splines. ![]() I will offer mine.īe very careful with the shifter cables dangling because they can damage easily and it will be evident a week, month or so afterwards. I think a few people touched on a few good points. But the biggest piece of advice is get a copy of the shop manual. If you never did this before, plan on more than one day as you probably will run into some issues (frozen bolts, wrong socket, etc). Since aftermarket axles are either junk, or really hard to find, threat the axles assemblies with a lot of care. But be sure to unstake the nuts completely as it is easy to damage the threads. If you do this, you can leave the drivers side axle in the trans as it doesn't always come out easily. It is probably harder to try to remove the axles without pulling them from the hubs than it is to just remove the suspension links, unstake the axle nuts, and pull the axles out of the hubs. Don't disconnect the slave cylinder hydraulic line as suggested in some articles, just zip tie the cylinder out of the way. Getting the clutch and flywheel balanced is probably a waste of time, as is getting a flywheel resurfaced as a new flywheel is cheap. If you do decide to do it, get the proper install tool (which will cost a lot more than the seal). How important is this?Īs suggested in many other threads, don't change the rear seal unless it is leaking. I plan on asking City Toyota what machine shop they use, and have them do it. If I can't do it tomorrow (most shops are closed), I'll do it Monday. I'm going to get the flywheel and clutch kit balanced and make sure the new flywheel has the step Toyota requires. What points on the engine should I use to hold it up? I have an engine support bar, and I know one point is the hook on the left exhaust side of the engine. What's the best way to remove the axles from the transmission without removing them from the hubs? Should I just pull them out of the hubs anyway? I have a 30mm 12 point socket and an impact. What about VSS, where is that? Any other plugs I'm not aware of? And the slave cylinder, it comes off the transmission how? How much has to come off the transmission before it's ready to be dropped? The shift cables and axles are obvious. Drain the transmission, drop the transmission, remove pressure plate, remove flywheel, replace rear main seal, throw on new flywheel with new flywheel bolts, torque bolts to spec, throw on new clutch and pressure plate with alignment tool, torque bolts to spec, replace transmission. Clutch kit, alignment tool, new flywheel, flywheel bolts, gear oil, brake fluid, 12 point sockets, a torque wrench, a rear main seal, and a sense of hope.
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